Creamy Salmon, Prawn and Squid Risotto

Risotto asks for patience more than skill. The rice is Arborio, a short, plump grain that releases starch as it stirs, and that starch is what turns the stock into a creamy coat rather than a watery broth. Keep the stock hot and add it a ladle at a time, and you will feel the texture change under the spoon. It is a quiet, rewarding way to spend twenty minutes.

Arborio is a fine partner for seafood because it is gentle. The salmon, prawns and squid all cook quickly, so they go in near the end, once the rice is nearly there. Salmon is the richest of the three and turns flaky within a few minutes, so cut it into even cubes and check that the centre is no longer glassy before you stop. Prawns and squid only need a couple of minutes. Overcooked squid goes rubbery fast, so trust the timer.

The yogurt at the end is a small trick worth keeping. Stirring it in off the heat, then letting the pan rest with a lid on, gives a softer, looser finish than cream would, and it sits nicely against the salmon. A little extra chopped parsley scattered on top at the very end keeps the colour bright.

If you want something light beside it, a bowl of Silky Watercress and Potato Soup makes a gentle starter, with the peppery leaves cutting through the richness. For a cold side with more bite, Herby Wheat Berry and Quinoa Salad works well, especially if you have leftover parsley to use up. Fishcakes are another natural companion, so if you have made a batch of Crispy Salmon Cakes with Lemon before, a small plate of those alongside is lovely.

Leftover risotto keeps in the fridge for a day or two, but it thickens as it cools and will need a splash of hot water or stock stirred through when you reheat it. Seafood reheats less gracefully than plain rice, so eat it within a day and keep the portion you plan to warm up small.