Golden Filo Tarts with Salmon and Spinach

Filo is the most forgiving pastry you will ever work with, and also the most easily dried out. These tarts use it the way many home cooks in Britain have for years, pressing sheets into small ovenproof dishes so they splay into a flower shape. The petals go crisp in the oven while the filling underneath stays soft. Once you have one tart in front of you, the rest are easy.

The main thing to know about filo is that it dries in minutes once the packet is open. Keep the sheets you are not using under a damp tea towel, and brush each layer lightly with oil so the edges turn golden rather than brittle. Salmon is a lovely partner here because it is rich and holds its shape when cubed. It is an oily fish, which is one reason many people like to include it in the week, and its flavour sits well against sweet yellow pepper and dill.

Spinach needs a bit of attention before it goes in. Frozen spinach, defrosted, is the easiest option, and squeezing out as much water as you can will stop the custard turning watery. If you use fresh leaves, wilt them in a pan first, then drain them well before folding them through the pepper and onion.

A small tip on the custard: the egg and milk mixture is loose, so pour it gently over the top rather than tipping it in from a height. It will find its way down around the salmon and set into a soft, almost savoury pudding. Cherry tomatoes sliced over the top add a bit of juice and colour, and a scrap of filo pressed into the middle gives each tart a little peak that looks deliberate.

Leftovers keep in the fridge for a day or so. Reheat them in a low oven rather than a microwave, which will make the pastry soft. They are also good cold the next day, packed into a lunchbox with a handful of leaves.

For something to serve alongside, a simple green salad with a sharp dressing works well, or a bowl of new potatoes tossed in butter and chopped chives if you want something more filling. The lemon wedges are not just decoration; a squeeze over the tart before eating lifts the whole thing.

If you want to keep the meal going, the Baked Onions with Garlic and Rosemary make a comforting side that uses the same oven, and the Ginger and chilli salmon with tenderstem broccoli is a good next step if you enjoy salmon and want something with more heat.