Wild Mushroom and Herb Lattice Pies

Dried porcini are one of the most useful things to keep in a cupboard. They are wild mushrooms, dried so they keep for months, and when you soak them the water turns dark and smells like the woods after rain. That soaking liquid is the secret here. Strain it through a fine sieve and it goes into the pan with the fresh mushrooms, so the filling tastes deeper than the list of ingredients suggests. Don't throw the soaking water away, and don't skip the sieve, because grit sometimes hides in the bottom of the bowl.

Mushrooms are mostly water, so they shrink a lot as they cook. That is why this filling looks like a small amount of food in the pan and then fills the dish. Give the mixed mushrooms a proper stir-fry on a medium heat, and let the liquid cook off before the stock goes in. If the pan is crowded, the mushrooms steam and turn grey instead of browning, and you lose the savoury edge. Cook them in two batches if your pan is small.

Tarragon is the herb to notice. It has an aniseed warmth that suits mushrooms and leek very well, and a little goes a long way. Stir it in once the filling has cooled a bit, so the bright green flavour stays fresh rather than fading in the heat. The parsley just adds a clean lift.

For leftovers, the filling keeps well in a covered container in the fridge for up to two days. It is also excellent cold, spooned onto toast with a little mustard, or stirred into a bowl of hot rice the next day. Once baked, the pies are best eaten the same day, as the pastry softens.

These pies sit well next to a simple plate of greens. Green beans and broccoli, as suggested, are a good choice because they keep their colour and bite beside the soft filling. If you want something lighter on the side, a bowl of Fresh Mixed Greens Salad Bowl with a sharp dressing works nicely. For a warm, earthy plate, try Savory Wild Rice Pilaf with Cherries alongside, which echoes the rice in the filling.