Baked Tomatoes Filled with Rice and Herbs

Stuffed tomatoes are one of those dishes that show up all over the Italian table, especially in summer when the beefsteaks are heavy and sweet. The version here comes from the Roman habit of filling tomatoes with rice that has been cooked in stock, then flavored with a generous handful of herbs. The rice soaks up the tomato juice as it bakes, so the filling ends up moist without being soupy, and the skins hold everything together like little bowls.

A food fact worth knowing: most of a tomato's flavor sits in its gel, the jelly around the seeds, not just the flesh. That is why the recipe asks you to save the pulp and juice and fold it back into the rice. Don't throw it out. It is the easiest way to make the filling taste like tomato instead of plain rice.

A few small tips from my own kitchen. Choose tomatoes that are firm enough to hold their shape but ripe enough to smell sweet at the stem end. When you cut the lids, go slowly, because a torn skin will leak and the tomato will slump in the oven. A melon scoop works better than a spoon for getting close to the wall without piercing it. And keep stirring the rice in the early minutes, since arborio can catch on the bottom of the pan if you walk away.

These are good hot, but I like them a little more at room temperature, when the herbs taste brighter and the rice has settled. Leftovers keep in the fridge for a day or two. Bring them back to room temperature rather than blasting them in the microwave, which tends to make the skins rubbery. They also make a fine packed lunch, sliced into wedges if you want to eat them with a fork at your desk.

For serving, I usually put out something cool and crisp beside them. A simple tomato and mozzarella plate, like Fresh Tomato Basil Mozzarella Salad, repeats the summer flavors without competing. A bowl of Sweet Corn Salad with Dill and Basil adds sweetness and crunch. If you want something warm and earthy on the side, a Creamy Fava Bean Puree with Pecorino spread on toasted bread makes a lovely pairing with the herby rice.

Keep a little extra olive oil and fresh basil on hand. A last drizzle over the tomatoes just before they go to the table makes a bigger difference than you would expect.