Cabbage Steaks with Saucy Chicken and Cheese

Cabbage has a long history as a cheap, sturdy vegetable that keeps well in a cold cellar, and that's a big reason it turns up in so many old-world kitchens. A head of green cabbage will sit in the fridge for weeks, which makes it a good thing to have on hand when you want dinner without a trip to the store. Slicing it into thick rounds, rather than shredding it, is what makes this dish work. The slices hold their shape in the oven, and the outer edges caramelize into something close to roasted sweetness.

I like to think of this as a pizza night that took a shortcut. The tomato sauce is simple: canned crushed tomatoes with no salt added, a little dried oregano, and a pinch of red pepper flakes if you like a bit of bite. Keeping the salt out of the can lets you control the seasoning yourself, which matters if you're watching what's in your food. Folding a couple of spoonfuls of that sauce into the shredded chicken before it goes on the cabbage keeps the meat moist, so it doesn't dry out under the cheese.

One thing I learned the hard way: don't skip the flip at the halfway point. If you leave the slices on one side, the bottom gets pale and the top stays a little raw. Turning them gives you those golden, slightly crisp edges that make the whole thing taste more deliberate.

Leftovers keep well for about three days in a covered container. Reheat them in a skillet with a splash of water rather than the microwave, which tends to make the cabbage limp. The cheese will firm up in the fridge, but it softens again once it's warm.

For a side, something cool and crisp balances the richness of the cheese. A bowl of sliced cucumbers with a squeeze of lemon works well, and so does a green salad with a sharp vinaigrette. If you want something more filling, a small scoop of the Creamy Basil Pesto with Spinach spooned over the top is a lovely idea, though I'd go easy on it since the basil already brings a fresh note. For a light starter, a plate of Fresh Tomato Basil Mozzarella Salad fits the same Italian-leaning mood without weighing down the meal.