Cod and salmon burger baps with dill

Fish burgers have a reputation for drying out on the grill, and this recipe gets around that by doing two things at once. Blending the cod into a smooth paste gives the patty a light, springy structure, and then the diced salmon goes in by hand so you still get little pockets of rich, oily fish. Those pockets are what keep each bite moist. It is a sensible way to use two very different fish in one patty, and it means you do not need a lot of binding to hold everything together.

A quick word on the fish itself. Cod is lean and mild, which is why it takes on lemon and dill so easily. Salmon carries more natural oil, and that oil is what gives the patty its flavour and softness. Using both is a bit like pairing a plain bread with a richer spread: each one covers for the other's weakness. If you cannot find skinless salmon, a good-quality salmon fillet with the skin removed works just as well, and it is worth asking the fishmonger to take the bones out for you so you are not picking them out by hand.

When you shape the patties, wet your hands first. The mixture is soft, and damp fingers stop it sticking to you. Chilling them while you make the salad is not a fussy extra. It firms the patties enough that they hold their shape on the grill, and they come off the sheet in one piece. Keep an eye on them at the four to five minute mark, because fish cooks quickly and you want it opaque all the way through without going chalky.

For the baps, a toasted wholemeal bun with a crisp leaf underneath makes a big difference. Little gem is my favourite here because it stays crunchy under the warm fish. Cold cucumber and sharp red onion cut through the richness, and a squeeze of lemon over the top brings it all together. If you want something to go alongside, a bowl of Crunchy Kachumber Salad with Lemon Dressing fits the mood nicely, and a spoonful of Indian Red Lentil Salad with Lemon Dressing makes a more filling plate for a lunch with friends.

Leftover patties keep in a sealed container in the fridge for a day, and they reheat well in a low oven rather than a microwave, which can turn them rubbery. Cold, they are also good crumbled over a leafy salad the next day.