Chocolate Zucchini Black Bean Muffins

These muffins started as a way to use up zucchini from a garden that never knows when to stop. Zucchini is about 95 percent water, which is why the step of pressing it dry with a paper towel matters more than it looks. Skip it and the batter turns loose and the muffins come out gummy in the middle. Once the zucchini is squeezed, it folds in almost invisibly, adding moisture and a soft, bready crumb without any taste of its own.

The black beans do a similar job. Blended with a little water until they look like pumpkin purée, they become the fat and body that flour would otherwise supply. I am a little stubborn about the blending time. Give the beans the full two or three minutes in the food processor, because any little pieces of skin will show up as flecks in the crumb. Rinsing the canned beans well also takes away much of the sodium and the starchy liquid that can make a batter taste flat.

The cocoa and cinnamon do most of the work of making these taste like dessert. Nutmeg is a small pinch, but it is the thing people ask about. If you have a cold day and a bit of time, let the batter sit for five minutes before it goes into the cups, so the baking mix can soak up some liquid. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, let them rest in the pan for ten minutes, then move them to a rack. Cooling them fully keeps the tops from going soggy.

They keep well. Store them in an airtight container on the counter for a day or two, or freeze them individually wrapped for up to a few months and let them thaw on the counter. A warm one with a cup of unsweetened tea is a fine breakfast. For a lunch that has more substance, a bowl of Spiced Yogurt Roasted Cauliflower makes a savory counterpoint, and Smoky Lemon Chicken Thighs with Caramelised Sprouts pairs nicely if you want something more filling after school or work.