Cozy Pork and Pumpkin Stew

Pumpkin in a savory pot is older than most of us realize. Long before it was spiced into pies, cooks in the Americas were roasting and stewing squash with meat, corn and beans, and this stew sits comfortably in that tradition. The sugar pumpkin is the one to reach for here. It is smaller and less watery than the big carving pumpkins, so the cubes hold their shape through a long simmer instead of dissolving into mush.

Pork shoulder is the reason this stew is so forgiving. It is a working cut full of connective tissue, which softens into silky bits after hours of gentle heat. That is also why it pays to trim the visible fat before you cube it. You get a lean, tender stew without a greasy film on top. Browning the pork in a hot pan is worth the few extra minutes. Those dark patches on the meat are where most of the flavor starts, and the tomato paste and broth you whisk into the pan afterward lift every one of them into the sauce.

A small tip from years of slow cooker stews: wait until the pumpkin and beans are in before you season the finished pot. Slow cooking concentrates things, and a little pinch of salt or a squeeze of lemon at the end will wake the whole bowl up. The cinnamon is quiet on purpose. It should read as warmth rather than dessert, so resist the urge to add more.

For leftovers, let the stew cool, then portion it into containers and refrigerate for up to three or four days, or freeze it for a few months. It thickens as it sits, so loosen it with a splash of broth when you reheat. Pumpkin also freezes well in this kind of stew, though the texture is softest after reheating, which suits a spoon-and-bowl meal just fine.

To serve, I like something green and bright alongside, or a spoon of plain yogurt on top for cool contrast. If you want something more filling for a cold night, the Calabaza Squash Chowder with Pepitas makes a lovely companion meal, since both lean on squash and warm spices. For a simple side that soaks up the broth, try the Savory Mushroom and Thyme Quinoa Pilaf. Its earthy herbs echo the thyme already in the pot.