Calabaza Squash Chowder with Pepitas

Calabaza is the large, pale-skinned squash you will often find in Caribbean and Latin markets, sometimes sold in wedges with the seeds scooped out. Its flesh is drier and less watery than a butternut, and it turns silky when simmered, which is why this chowder gets its body without any cream or flour. Peeling a squash this tough is the hardest part of the job. Keep the knife steady, cut the squash into slabs first, and then cut the slabs into cubes so each piece is easy to handle.

Calabaza is a common ingredient across the Caribbean, Central America and parts of West Africa, and you will see it in soups, stews and rice dishes all over those regions. This chowder borrows its bright flavors from that same kitchen: ginger for warmth, a little jalapeño for a slow heat that builds in the back of your throat, and fresh thyme for something earthy. Most of the flavor comes from simply letting the vegetables cook down together for close to an hour, so the broth tastes like the squash rather than like the carton.

A cooking tip that makes a real difference: stir the lime juice and cilantro in off the heat, or at the very end, and taste before you reach for more salt. Lime wakes up squash, and a small amount of salt goes a long way when the vegetables are this sweet. If the chowder seems thick after it sits, loosen it with a splash of hot water rather than more broth, since the squash has already done the thickening.

For a bowl with more substance, serve it alongside a plate of Hearty Red Bean and Squash Stew on a cold day, or pair it with Trinidad Style Curried Vegetables with Chickpeas for a meal with plenty of color. Warm crusty bread or a few lime wedges on the side are all you need.

To store, let the chowder cool, then refrigerate it in a sealed container for up to three days. It reheats well on the stove over medium-low heat. Freezing works too, though the texture softens a little, so give it a good stir as it warms. Keep the pepitas separate until serving, because they lose their crunch once they sit in the broth. Toast a small handful in a dry pan for a few minutes until they begin to pop, then store the extra in a jar. They make a quick topping for salads and roasted vegetables the next day.