Crisp Chicken and Vegetable Rice Paper Rolls

Rice paper rolls are one of those dishes that feel fancy but ask for very little skill. The wrappers are dried sheets of rice flour and tapioca or starch, and they turn soft and slightly chewy once they touch water. That short dip is the only tricky part. Pull the wrapper out too early and it cracks; leave it too long and it turns gummy and tears when you fold it. Ten to fifteen seconds is usually right, and the sheet keeps softening on the board as you fill it, so work with it while it is still a little stiff.

The filling here is mostly crunch. Shredded cabbage and carrot hold their texture for hours, which is why these rolls travel well for lunch. Shiitake mushrooms add a meaty, savory note that makes the chicken taste more like the centre of a meal than a side. If you slice the mushrooms thinly, they tuck into the roll without poking through the wrapper.

A few things I've learned from making these on a weeknight. Dry the cucumber well before adding it, or the rolls get watery by the next day. Keep the wrapped rolls under a damp towel while you work, since uncovered rice paper dries out and cracks at the edges. If you have leftover filling, it makes a quick bowl: spoon it over warm rice and drizzle the leftover dipping sauce on top. The sauce keeps in a covered jar in the fridge for several days, and a splash of it wakes up almost any plate of plain greens.

For a fuller lunch, pair these with a bowl of Silky Ginger and Carrot Soup. The warm, smooth soup is a nice contrast to the cold, crisp rolls. If you want something more hearty on the side, a bowl of Slow Cooker Moo Shu Chicken fits the same flavor family without much extra work.

Serve the rolls cut in half on a flat plate so people can see the colors, and put the dipping sauce in a small bowl within easy reach. They are best eaten the same day they are rolled, but they hold up better than you might expect when wrapped tightly in plastic.