Crispy Tofu and Vegetable Stir-Fry

I used to rush tofu straight from the packet into the pan, and it always ended up pale and a bit spongy. The fix is boring but it works: drain it, wrap it in a clean tea towel, and lean something heavy on top for ten minutes or so. You will see water come out, and that water is what was stopping the cubes from browning. Once they are dry, they crisp up in the sesame oil the way you want, and they hold their shape when the vegetables go in.

Tofu is basically soy milk that has been set with a coagulant, then pressed into blocks. That is also why firm tofu takes on flavour so well. It is quite plain on its own, so it acts like a sponge for whatever you pour over it. Here the sponge gets a splash of reduced salt tamari and a little rice vinegar, which is a gentle sharp note rather than a sour one. If you have never cooked with tamari, it is a close cousin of soy sauce, usually made with little or no wheat, and it tends to be a bit richer.

Stir-fries like this one are a good way to use up whatever is limp in the crisper. Zucchini and capsicum go in first because they soften quickly, and the cauliflower florets stay a little firm and nutty if you do not overcrowd the pan. If you cook for more than two, cook the tofu in two batches. A crowded pan steams everything, and you lose the golden edges that make the dish worth eating.

For leftovers, keep the stir-fry in a sealed container in the fridge and eat it within a day or two. Tofu does not love being reheated for long, so warm it in a hot pan for a minute or two rather than blasting it in the microwave. The vegetables will soften further, which is fine. I like to spoon it over a bowl of brown rice or into a wrap with some shredded lettuce the next day.

It also sits nicely next to a simple cold side. A bowl of Indonesian salad with peanut dressing is a lovely partner if you want something crunchy and cool alongside the warm pan. If you are after something softer and comforting for a quiet evening, a spoonful of Golden Roasted Cauliflower Mash with Garlic on the side works just as well, and the garlic echoes the flavour already in the pan.

Serve it straight from the pan with the sesame seeds and herbs scattered over the top, and eat it while the tofu is still crisp.