Crustless Garden Vegetable Quiche

Quiche started life as a rich tart with a buttery shortcrust, but the filling is really just a savoury custard, and custard is forgiving. This version drops the pastry altogether and lets the vegetables do the talking. Cottage cheese stands in for some of the cream, which gives the set a softer, slightly tangy texture that suits the courgette and tomato well. It is the sort of bake I make when I want something warm on a plate without fussing over a pastry case.

A small thing worth knowing about eggs: they set through gentle heat. If your oven runs hot, the top can puff and colour before the middle is ready. Check at the 30 minute mark, and if the surface is golden but the centre still wobbles like a loose jelly, give it another few minutes rather than turning the heat up. A knife tip inserted into the middle should come out clean.

Cooking the vegetables down in the pan before they go into the egg is the step I would not skip. Courgette holds a lot of water, and if it goes into the dish raw, the quiche turns watery and the base never firms up. Let the onion, garlic and courgette soften properly, and the cherry tomatoes will still keep a little shape. Stir the herbs in off the heat so they stay bright and green rather than going dull.

For leftovers, the quiche keeps well in the fridge for a couple of days, covered once it has cooled. It is good cold, cut into wedges and packed into a lunchbox, and it reheats nicely in a low oven or a dry frying pan if you want the edges crisp again. I also like it with a bowl of peppery leaves, a spoonful of mustard dressing and some crusty bread on the side. If you are building a bigger lunch, it sits well alongside Charred Red Peppers with Cherry Tomato Filling, which repeats the sweet pepper note in a lighter way.

For a weekend lunch, a simple plate of Caramelised Chicory with Lemon and Pine Nuts gives you something bitter and golden to balance the soft, creamy slices. And if you want something a little heartier, Oven Baked Mackerel with Lemon Tomatoes makes a good companion for a hungry table.