Salmon blinis with watercress sauce

Blinis are small, thick pancakes that come from Russia, where they were traditionally made with buckwheat flour and yeast and eaten at Maslenitsa, the week before Lent when people welcomed spring with rich food. Nowadays the ready-made packs you find in the chiller or the bread aisle do the job nicely, and this recipe leans on them so that the whole plate comes together in about twenty minutes. Toasting them in a dry pan is worth the extra minute. It drives off a little moisture and gives them a faint nutty edge that stands up to the salmon.

The fish is the real star here. Salmon is an oily fish, and the flesh is naturally rich in omega-3 fats, which is one reason it is such a good choice for a light, savoury starter. Poaching it gently in water, as the method does, keeps it moist and tender, and it flakes apart easily once cooled. Don't be tempted to boil it hard. A gentle bubble is all it needs, and the residual heat finishes the job.

A small tip for the sauce: blitz the watercress just until it is finely green and loose. If you over-process it the sauce can turn slightly bitter and grey-looking. Watercress has a peppery bite, so the yogurt and lemon zest are there to soften it rather than hide it. If the sauce tastes too sharp, add a spoonful more yogurt rather than sugar.

Leftovers are worth thinking about. Flaked salmon keeps in a sealed container in the fridge for a day, and it makes a good filling for a jacket potato or a handful of salad leaves at lunch. The watercress sauce keeps for a day too, though it may loosen a little, so give it a stir before using. Unused blinis go stale quickly, so keep any spares in a bag and warm them again in a dry pan rather than the microwave.

For something to serve alongside, a bowl of Velvety Potato and Leek Soup makes a comforting start to a light lunch, and if you want a vegetable side that suits the lemon and dill, Lemon Dill Roasted Beets pairs well with the fish without competing for attention.