Swordfish Rolls with Eggplant and Tomato

This one came out of a Sicilian habit I find quietly clever. Sicilian cooks have always worked with what the sea and the garden gave them at the same time, and swordfish and eggplant both turn up on island tables in summer. Here the fish is pounded thin, wrapped around layers of soft eggplant, and then simmered in a sauce that tastes of garlic, basil, and a few toasted pine nuts. The rolls hold together better than you might expect, and the sauce does most of the work of keeping them moist.

A food fact worth knowing: swordfish is a firm, meaty fish with a lot of body, which is why it can take a good pounding without falling apart. Thin fillets cook in minutes, so the simmer is short and you are not chasing dry fish at the end. Eggplant behaves in a similar way in reverse. It is spongy and mild, and it soaks up whatever it is cooked in, so those paper-thin slices pick up the tomato and basil instead of tasting of nothing.

A few things I learned the hard way. Pound the fish between two sheets of wax paper, and lift the top sheet now and then to check for tears. If a piece splits, just tuck it into the roll and carry on, because the sauce will hide the seam. When you roll, start from the wide end and keep it snug, then secure each one with a toothpick before it goes into the pan. Keep the heat low once the rolls are in. A rolling simmer will toughen the fish faster than you think.

Leftovers keep for a day or two in the fridge in their sauce. Reheat gently, covered, over low heat, and do not let it boil hard. The sauce also makes a good spoon-over for plain grilled fish the next night. If you have extra eggplant from the broiling step, it is excellent chopped into the sauce or eaten cold with a squeeze of lemon the following day.

For serving, I like something bright and simple on the side. A plate of Fresh Tomato Platter with Balsamic Drizzle makes sense when tomatoes are at their best, and a bowl of Warm Zucchini Rounds with Tomato Olive Salsa echoes the same flavors without competing with the fish. Crusty bread for mopping the sauce is never a bad idea either.