Apricot Barbecue Chicken Pizza

Barbecue chicken pizza has a bit of a reputation as a California invention, though the story gets retold so many ways that I stopped trying to pin it down. What I like about it is how the sweet-and-smoky topping does most of the flavor work, so the rest of the pizza can stay simple. This version swaps in apricot preserves for part of the usual sugar, which gives the sauce a soft, almost jammy body and a tang that plays nicely against the onion.

A note on the chicken, because it is the part people most often get wrong. Boneless breast dries out fast, so pull it from the oven as soon as the juices run clear and let it rest a few minutes before you chop it. Those half-inch pieces are small enough to get a bite of sauce, cheese and chicken in every mouthful, which matters more than it sounds. If you have time, season the chicken the night before. Salt and pepper that sit on the meat overnight do a better job than a quick sprinkle right before baking.

The sauce is the one place where I would not rush. Let the apricot preserves, barbecue sauce and hot sauce come to a full boil in the saucepan, then take it off the heat. A boiled sauce spreads more evenly and won't soak into the crust in soggy patches. Spread it thin. You want it to be a layer, not a puddle.

For leftovers, cool the pizza fully, then wrap the slices loosely and refrigerate them for up to three days. Reheat in a hot oven or a dry skillet with a lid so the crust crisps back up. A microwave will make it chewy. Leftover chopped chicken also keeps well for a day or two and makes a fine lunch on greens with a spoonful of the extra sauce.

Serve it with something crisp and cool. A simple green salad with vinegar dressing cuts through the sweetness nicely. If you want something more filling, a bowl of minestrone or a plate of roasted zucchini fits alongside without competing. Here are a few places to go next:

• Hearty Meatball and Vegetable Soup makes a cozy partner on a cold evening.
• Crispy Baked Zucchini Sticks bring a crunchy side that goes well with the sauce.
• Grilled Garden Vegetable Pasta Salad works well for a picnic-style spread.