Baked Chocolate Orange Souffles

Soufflés have a reputation for being fussy, but this one is more forgiving than most. The trick is the orange. Instead of plain sugar, you warm the sugar with the grated rind and juice of two large oranges until it turns syrupy, then pour that hot syrup over the stiffly beaten egg whites. The syrup loosens the whites a little and gives them a glossy, sweet backbone, so they hold their shape without a lot of nervous whisking. It is a small piece of kitchen logic that makes a big difference.

Cocoa is the other quiet hero. Mixed with a splash of orange juice and a few drops of orange extract, it becomes a smooth paste that folds into the whites without knocking out all the air. Fold gently, with a big spoon and a patient wrist, and stop as soon as no dry streaks remain. Teacups are a lovely choice here because they give each souffle straight sides to climb. Grease them with a little vegetable oil so they release cleanly, and don't open the oven door in the first few minutes.

Egg whites are one of those ingredients that rewards a bit of respect. They whip best when the bowl and beaters are completely free of yolk or grease, and they reach their fullest volume when they are at room temperature. A pinch of attention at the start saves a lot of frustration later.

Serve these straight from the oven, while they are still tall and wobbly in the middle. The crème fraîche on top is not just decoration. Its tang cuts through the sweetness and the bitter cocoa, and a half-fat version keeps the spoonful light. If you want something more to go alongside, a bowl of fresh berries or a simple fruit compote works well. For a fuller dessert table, Apple and blackberry loaf cake makes a cosy companion, and the Fudgy Chocolate Beetroot Brownies suit anyone who wants a richer chocolate hit. For a showstopping alternative at the same table, try the Chocolate Beetroot Ring Cake with Berries.

These souffles are best eaten the moment they leave the oven. They will sink as they cool, which is normal and still tastes good, but there is no real way to save them for later. If you have leftover egg yolks from another bake, they make a fine custard or scrambled eggs the next morning.