Charred chicken and courgette skewers

The part of these skewers I keep coming back to is the marinade. Toasting the coriander and cumin seeds first makes a real difference. Once they go warm and fragrant in a dry pan, they smell nearly like bread crust, and that toasty note carries through to the chicken. Grind them while they are still warm and the powder tastes louder.

Chicken breast is lean, which is exactly why a sharp marinade suits it. The vinegar and the little bit of sun-dried tomato purée give the meat something to hold onto, and the garlic, ginger and chilli do the rest. Half an hour is enough if you are in a rush, but I prefer to cover the bowl and leave it in the fridge for a few hours, or overnight if the day has been long. The flavour sinks in and the chicken stays tender on the grill.

A few things I have learned the hard way:

• Pat the cubes lightly with kitchen paper before they hit the grill. Excess marinade drips and flares.
• Give the courgette rings a little more room than the chicken. They char quickly and go soft if they are crowded.
• Let the grill get properly hot. A cold grill steams the meat rather than browning it.
• Turn the skewers often, about every couple of minutes, so the char builds evenly instead of burning in one spot.

Courgettes are about 95 per cent water, so they shrink and sweeten on the heat. That is why the rings taste so good next to the spiced chicken, and why they are worth charring rather than just boiling. A good grilled courgette has a nutty edge that the raw vegetable never shows.

For serving, I like something cool and crisp alongside. A bowl of Crisp Greek Salad with Lemon Herb Dressing works well, and so does a plate of Lemony Garlic and Chilli Greens if you want something warm and green. Lemon or lime wedges are not optional here. A squeeze over the top wakes up the cumin and makes the whole plate feel bright.

Leftover skewers keep in the fridge for a day or two. Slide the chicken off the sticks and chop it into a wrap or a grain bowl the next day. It is also good cold, tucked into a pitta with some yoghurt.