Cheesy Garlic and Chilli Lemon Popcorn

Popcorn is one of the oldest snacks we know of. Archaeologists have found popped corn in Peru that is thousands of years old, so this pan of savoury corn is part of a very long line of cooks who simply wanted something crunchy to nibble on. I like that this recipe asks for nothing fancier than a deep pan with a lid and a bit of patience.

The trick with popping at home is the lid. Keep it on, keep the pan moving, and listen. The popping starts as a few single pops and then builds into a rapid rhythm. When the sound slows to a gap of a few seconds, the corn is nearly done. Tip it out straight away into a big bowl so the steam does not turn the bottom kernels soft. Unpopped kernels will sink to the bottom of the pan, so leave them behind rather than fishing for them.

Dividing the batch into two bowls is the nice part. The cheesy garlic version is mellow and warm. Gently cooking the garlic and oregano in the oil for a minute releases their smell into the oil, and then the popcorn picks it up as you toss. Keep the garlic pale, because brown garlic turns bitter and will taste harsh on the corn. Parmesan is best grated very fine so it clings to the surface instead of falling to the bowl. If you are in the mood for corn with a similar cheesy flavour but a different format, try Cheesy Microwave Corn on the Cob.

The chilli and lemon version has more zing. Let the lemon juice bubble for a minute so it thickens slightly and loses some of its sharpness, and the zest will give you the perfume without the sourness. A bit of thyme through the oil makes it taste like a snack you would find on a picnic table in early summer. If you like things hotter, leave the seeds in the chilli, but taste a tiny piece first.

Popcorn keeps for a day in an airtight tin, though it does lose its crispness after that. If you have leftovers, spread them on a tray in a low oven for a few minutes to bring the crunch back. For a simple light supper, pair a bowl of either batch with a crisp green salad or a plate of sliced cucumber and radishes. If you want something more filling to go alongside, a bowl of Hearty Vegetable Minestrone Soup makes a good companion, and a slice of Golden leek tart with goat's cheese turns the snack into a proper lunch.