Chilled Cucumber and Mint Curd Dip

This dip is one of those recipes that asks very little of you. Hung curds, the thick strained yogurt that Indian kitchens call chakka dahi, do most of the work. They hold their shape and carry the grated cucumber without turning watery, which is why the dip stays spoonable instead of soupy. If your curds look loose, tie them in a clean muslin cloth for half an hour and let the whey drip into the sink before you start.

Grate the cucumber on the small holes of a box grater and leave the peel on for colour and a little bite. Cucumber is mostly water, roughly 95 percent by weight, so it adds freshness and volume without much weight. That is also why the dip tastes so clean and light. Squeeze the grated cucumber gently in a tea towel if you want an even thicker dip for crackers.

Mint and coriander are the heart of the flavour here. Chop them just before mixing, because they bruise and darken if they sit around. The green chilli is small but it keeps the dip from tasting flat, so taste before you add salt and adjust from there. A pinch of cumin powder gives a warm, earthy note that suits the cool yogurt.

The dip is at its best after the hour in the fridge. The herbs settle into the curds and the garlic softens. Keep any leftovers covered in a clean jar for up to two days. Stir it briskly before serving, since a little liquid may gather on top. It also makes a fine spread. Try it inside a wrap with leftover roasted vegetables, or spoon it over a warm bowl of rice and dal on a hot afternoon. If you want something heartier beside it, a plate of Three Lentil Dal with Whole Spice Tempering makes a comforting, filling pairing. For a crisp, savoury bite, Mint and Red Lentil Patties echo the mint in the dip and are lovely dunked straight in.

Serve it in a shallow bowl with a drizzle of olive oil or a sprinkle of chaat masala if you have it. Carrot sticks and cream crackers are classic, but cucumber rounds and lightly toasted pita work just as well.