Creamy Crab Soup with Dill

Crab soup is one of those dishes that tastes like a stretch of coastline. On the Eastern Shore, cooks have long made it with whatever was fresh from the bay, and the seasoning tends to lean on Old Bay, which is a blend built around celery salt, paprika and pepper. A pinch goes a long way, so taste before you reach for more.

The crab is the star here, and it deserves some care. Lump crabmeat is the big, mostly whole pieces from the body of the crab, and it is more expensive than the shredded kind for good reason. Stir it in gently near the end of the cooking so the pieces stay intact and you still get that sweet, almost nutty flavour in every spoonful. Pick through it with your fingers before it goes in, since a stray bit of shell is no fun to find halfway through a mouthful.

The thickening step is the part that trips people up. Whisking the cornstarch into the half-and-half before it meets the hot broth keeps it from clumping, and it gives the soup a silky body without needing a heavy cream. Once it has come to a boil, let it cook a few minutes more so the starch fully sets and the soup tastes rounded rather than floury.

If you have leftovers, let the soup cool and keep it in a sealed container in the fridge for up to two days. It will thicken as it sits, so loosen it with a splash of broth when you reheat it over low heat. Do not let it boil hard again, or the crab turns rubbery.

For a simple meal, I like to serve this with something green and sturdy. A bowl of Golden Herbed Cabbage Steaks alongside it makes the table feel complete, and a side of Creamy Steamed Red Potato Mash turns it into something close to a supper. If you want a lighter, brothy plate, a spoonful of Hearty Red Bean and Squash Stew on the side adds fibre and warmth without any fuss.

Crusty bread is always welcome for mopping up the last of the bowl. Add a squeeze of lemon at the table if you like a bit of brightness, and a little extra dill on top never hurt anyone.