Crisp Poha Ragi Handvo with Vegetables

Handvo is one of those dishes that sounds fussy until you make it once and realise it is really just a savoury batter cake with a bit of attitude. It comes from Gujarat, where it is often baked in a heavy pot with a lid and piled with coals on top. This version skips the oven and the coals and uses a plain non-stick pan, so you can make it on an ordinary weeknight without special equipment.

The base here is thick beaten rice, the flattened kind sold as jada poha. It is worth seeking out the thick variety rather than the thin flakes, because it holds its shape in the batter and gives the cakes a pleasant chew. Soaking it in the curd and water for twenty minutes softens it right through, so there is no grit in the finished handvo. Ragi, or finger millet flour, brings a warm, earthy note and a deeper colour. Millet is a whole grain that has been part of everyday cooking across parts of India for a very long time, and it adds fibre and body to a batter like this without much fuss.

A few small things make a big difference. Do not skip the sizzling tempering. Mustard seeds, sesame and asafoetida hit hot oil and release a nutty, sharp smell that sits right at the centre of the flavour. Pour it over the poha while it is still fragrant. When you add the ragi flour, work it in only until the streaks disappear, so the batter stays loose enough to spread thinly in the pan. Keep the flame at medium and cover the pan. The lid traps steam, which cooks the middle, and the uncovered bottom gets the golden edge that makes handvo so satisfying.

Handvo is best eaten warm, but leftovers are not a loss. Wrap cooled pieces tightly and keep them in the fridge for a day. Warm them in a dry pan on low with a lid, which brings back the softness. They also pack nicely into a lunch box with a little yoghurt on the side.

For something cool to balance the spice, a bowl of Creamy Mixed Vegetable Raita with Beetroot fits beautifully. The beetroot gives it a lovely colour next to the golden slices. If you want a lighter plate, a quick Ridge Gourd and Yellow Lentil Dal makes a comforting companion without weighing down the meal.

Serve the slices straight from the pan with a little green chutney or a squeeze of lemon. Handvo has a way of disappearing faster than you planned, so it is worth making a double batch.