Hearty Mushroom and Walnut Mini Loaves

Mushrooms do a lot of quiet work in this recipe. When you cook them low and slow in olive oil, they give up their water, then start to brown and turn sweet and deeply savory. That's the reason the onion and mushrooms get the full ten minutes here, and why you shouldn't rush them. Pale, steamed mushrooms make a soggy loaf. Browned ones make something that tastes like it came out of a proper Sunday kitchen.

Mixed mushrooms are worth the trouble if you can find them. Cremini bring earthiness, white mushrooms add a mild backbone, and a Portobello gives the mixture some meaty depth. Chopping them finely matters too, because the small pieces hold together with the egg and panko instead of falling apart when you slice into a loaf.

The walnuts are a good quiet addition. They add a little richness and a slight bitterness that plays nicely against the sweetness of the sun-dried tomatoes. Toasting them in a dry pan for a couple of minutes before chopping makes a noticeable difference, and you can do it while the onions are cooking.

Ramekins make these easy to portion and easy to share. If you don't have four 8-ounce ones, a muffin tin works, though the loaves will be smaller and will need a few minutes less in the oven, so check them early. Let them rest for a few minutes after they come out so they firm up before you run a knife around the edges.

Leftovers keep well. Cool any extra loaves completely, then store them covered in the fridge for a few days. They reheat nicely in a low oven or a dry skillet, which crisps the outside back up. You can also crumble a cold one over a green salad for a quick lunch.

For a meal, I like serving these with a bowl of Kale and Red Pepper Quinoa Bowl, which brings a bright, slightly crunchy contrast. A simple tomato sauce on the side works too. If you want something green and sharp, a quick sauté of Garlicky Thyme Skillet Mushrooms can sit alongside without competing.