Crispy Potato Pancakes with Mushroom Topping

Potato pancakes are one of those dishes that travel well across kitchens. Versions turn up in many countries, usually made from whatever starchy potatoes a household has on hand, grated, bound with egg and fried in a little fat until the edges go brown and lacy. This version is simple enough for a weeknight, and the mushroom topping makes it feel like a proper supper.

A food fact worth knowing: grated potato starts browning the moment it meets air, and it also gives up a lot of water. That is why the mixture can look soupy after a few minutes. If you have time, tip the grated potato into a clean tea towel and squeeze it before you add the eggs. You will get crisper pancakes and less spattering in the pan. Keep the heat medium to low, since the inside needs time to cook through before the outside burns.

For the mushrooms, let them sit in the pan for a minute or two before you start stirring. They release their liquid, then soak it back up as it cooks down, and that is where the savoury depth comes from. Cook the onions slowly so they turn soft and sweet rather than catching. Any mushrooms work, so use what is cheap and fresh. A pinch of black pepper and plenty of parsley at the end brighten the whole pan.

Leftovers keep well. Store the pancakes and the mushroom sauce separately in the fridge for up to two days. To reheat, put the pancakes on a tray in a hot oven or in a dry frying pan so they crisp up again, and warm the sauce gently in a small pan with a splash of water if it has thickened. Microwaved pancakes go soft and rubbery, so avoid that if you can.

For serving, a crisp green salad with a sharp vinaigrette cuts through the richness nicely. If you want something more filling, a spoonful of plain yoghurt on the side works well and adds a cool contrast. Pancakes also pair with a bowl of roasted cherry tomatoes or a handful of peppery rocket.

If you are building a bigger meal around these, a lighter starter such as the Creamy Corn and Potato Chowder is a comforting way to begin. For a fish-based main, the Crab and Sweet Potato Patties with Chilli Salsa follow a similar idea of golden, pan-fried patties. And if you want a meat-based main to share the table, the Herby Roast Chicken with Golden Vegetables fits alongside the pancakes without fuss.