Crunchy Apple, Beet and Carrot Slaw

Most slaws are built for a picnic table, but this one is happiest on a weeknight when the main course needs a bright, crunchy partner. The mix of beet, carrot and apple looks like a lot of color in one bowl, and that's the point. Beets are one of those vegetables that stain everything they touch, so I keep a cutting board just for them. Wear an old shirt, or at least be ready to scrub your fingernails afterward.

A little food fact that surprised me when I first made this: raw beets are much firmer than cooked ones, so shredding them thin gives you a snap that roasted beets never have. Carrots add sweetness and apples add tartness, and the walnuts give a soft, slightly bitter bite that keeps the sweetness from tipping over. Blood orange is the reason I reach for this version over a plain vinaigrette. Its juice has a deeper, berry-like flavor, and it turns the dressing a pretty dark pink that looks lovely over the grated shreds. If you can't find blood oranges, a regular orange works fine, just a little less dramatic.

Storage is where I learned to be honest with myself. The slaw is at its best within the hour, because the salt and citrus start pulling water out of the apple and carrot, and the herbs wilt. If you have leftovers, keep the dressing and the slaw in separate containers. The dressed version will be softer the next day, still tasty tucked into a wrap, but not crisp. Undressed shredded beets and carrots will keep in the fridge for a few days, so you can prep them ahead on a Sunday and just whisk the dressing right before dinner.

For serving, I like this next to something warm and savory so the cold, sharp slaw has contrast. Grilled fish or a bowl of quinoa and roasted vegetables both work well. Our Roasted Cod with Summer Vegetables and Quinoa is a natural match, since the fish is mild and the slaw adds the crunch the plate was missing. The slaw also sits nicely beside a spoonful of something creamy and herb-heavy, so the dressing and the cheese play off each other.

If you want a second slaw to compare notes with, try Shredded Carrot Salad with Citrus Dressing. It's a gentler, carrot-forward version that makes a good side when you want something lighter on the palate and a little quicker to put together.

Taste the dressing before you pour it over. Blood oranges vary in tartness, so you may want an extra squeeze of juice or a pinch more salt to wake it up. Then toss gently but thoroughly, and serve it right away while the shreds are still crisp.