Curried Salmon Rice with Eggs

Kedgeree started life in British India as khichri, a simple pot of rice and lentils. When British cooks came home in the 1800s they turned it into a breakfast dish, adding flaked fish and hard-boiled eggs. This version keeps that spirit but lightens the load: salmon in place of smoked haddock, a little low-fat yogurt for creaminess, and plenty of lemon to lift the spice.

Salmon is a good fish to cook this way because it stays moist under gentle heat. Cut into cubes rather than flaked, it holds its shape in the rice and won't turn to mush when you fold it through. Salmon is also a source of omega-3 fats, which is one reason it turns up so often in everyday cooking. You don't need to chase anything fancy here; supermarket fillets work well.

A few small habits make a real difference. Rinse the basmati before cooking so the grains don't clump, and resist the urge to lift the lid while it simmers. Sitting the pan off the heat for those final three minutes lets the grains firm up and separate. Keep the leek and pepper soft but not browned, so they add sweetness rather than bitterness. When you fold the salmon in, use a wide spoon and gentle turns so the cubes stay in one piece.

Leftovers are worth planning for. Cool the rice quickly, keep it in a sealed container in the fridge, and eat it within a day or so, reheating it until piping hot all the way through. The egg quarters are best eaten the same day. If you're packing it for lunch, add the coriander fresh each time, since it loses its brightness overnight.

For serving, I like a crisp, bitter side to cut through the richness. A bowl of charred fennel and green beans fits nicely alongside, and if you're feeding a crowd at brunch, chive and smoked salmon tartlet bites make a pretty, bite-sized companion. For something warm and simple on a cold day, a cup of fresh mint and pea soup before the rice is a lovely start.