Chive and Smoked Salmon Tartlet Bites

These little tartlets started life as a way to use up a few things sitting in the fridge: a half tub of crème fraîche, a scrap of smoked salmon, and a bunch of chives gone a bit floppy on the windowsill. They have stayed in my rotation ever since, mostly because they disappear before the tray has cooled.

Smoked salmon is one of those ingredients that tastes richer than its weight suggests. It is cured and then smoked, so the flesh is already firm and salty, which is why a small amount goes such a long way here. Chopping it roughly rather than finely means you get little pockets of pink through the custard instead of a uniform pale filling. Keep an eye on the salt, too. Between the smoked fish and the pastry, you may find you do not need to add any more at the table.

A tip from my own mistakes: blind baking the cases for the full ten minutes matters. If the pastry is still pale and soft when the filling goes in, the egg and cream can make the bottoms go soggy before the top sets. Let the cases cool a touch before filling, too, so the filling does not slide about. And add the chives right at the end, after the cream and egg are whisked. Chives lose their bright flavour if they cook for a long time, and a handful stirred in at the last moment keeps that green, oniony lift.

These keep for a day in an airtight tin in the fridge. Reheat them gently in a low oven for a few minutes rather than in the microwave, which makes the pastry rubbery. They are also very nice cold the next morning with a cup of tea.

For a lunch spread, I like to serve them alongside a bowl of Curried Salmon Rice with Eggs if I am feeding a crowd that wants something more filling, or next to a simple Pan Seared Salmon with Watercress and Orange for a dinner where the tartlets act as a starter. A few crisp leaves of watercress, dressed with lemon, cut through the richness nicely. If I am making a bigger brunch, a bowl of Toasted mini bagels with herby salmon cheese sits well on the same table, and everyone can pick their favourite.

They are at their best warm rather than hot, so do not panic if they come out a few minutes before guests arrive. Set them on a board, scatter a few extra chive snips over the top, and let people help themselves.