Dal Dhokli with Fenugreek and Soy

Dal dhokli is one of those dishes that began as a way to make a little go a long way. Gujarati home cooks would take a pot of plain toovar dal, the same one served with rice most days, and turn it into a full meal by adding dough. The dough is rolled into thin rounds, cooked lightly on a tava, cooled and cut into diamonds. Those diamonds, the dhoklis, go into the simmering dal at the very end, where they soak up the broth and turn soft and chewy. It is a humble idea, and I love it for that.

The fenugreek leaves in the dough deserve a little attention. Methi has a bitter edge that mellows the moment it meets heat and fat, and it perfumes the whole pot in a way that coriander alone never could. If you can only find dried leaves, you can use them, but crush them between your palms first and add them to the dough with a splash of water so they soften. Fresh is always nicer. Also, the soy flour in the dough is what gives these dhoklis their pale, slightly nutty colour. Whole wheat and soy are a good pair, because the dough holds together well after its quick cook on the tava.

A tip from my own kitchen: let the chapatis cool completely before you cut them. Warm dough is sticky and will tear into shapeless pieces. Cool ones keep their diamonds neatly. You can make the dhoklis a day ahead and keep them in a covered box at room temperature, then drop them into the dal just before serving. The dal itself keeps well in the fridge for a couple of days, and it thickens as it sits, so loosen it with a splash of hot water when you reheat.

Kokum is the sour note that makes this dal taste bright rather than heavy. It is a dried fruit from the Konkan coast, and a few pieces go a long way. If you cannot find it, a squeeze of lemon added at the end gives a similar lift, though the flavour is a little different. Keep the tomato and ginger-green chilli paste in the background so the dal tastes clean rather than sharp.

For a meal, I serve this with a cool glass of chaas or a plain cucumber and onion salad. A small bowl of hot rice is welcome too, if you want to soak up the last of the broth. If you are building a bigger spread, the Spiced Whole Wheat Rotis make a good companion, and the Jowar Ragi Parathas with Ajwain add a lovely earthy contrast for anyone who likes a little variety on the plate.