Dalia Khichdi with Sauteed Paneer

Khichdi is one of those dishes that every household in the north of India seems to have a claim on. Ask three aunties how theirs is made and you will get three answers, and all three will be right. This version swaps the usual rice for dalia, the broken wheat that cooks down into something soft and porridge-like, and it leans on sprouted moong for a bit of bite. It is the kind of meal you make when someone at home is unwell, or when you simply want something warm that does not ask much of you.

The spices go in first for a reason. Cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaf are bloomed in hot oil for a few seconds, and that is what gives the whole pot its scent before any water goes in. Dalia has a nutty, slightly earthy flavour of its own, and it soaks up those warm notes beautifully. If you have only ever cooked rice-based khichdi, expect a looser, more rustic texture. Dalia keeps swelling as it sits, so if the pot looks thick when you open it, a splash of hot water stirred through will loosen it up.

The paneer topping is the part I would not skip. Cubes of low fat paneer, seasoned with salt and a good crack of black pepper, go into a small hot pan for half a minute. They pick up a little colour at the edges and give you something to chew on against the soft dalia. Spoon them over the top just before serving, while they still have some warmth in them.

A cool bowl of curd on the side is traditional, and it does more than look nice. The tang and cold of the curd sit well against the spiced, savoury pot. If you want something more, the Cool Parsley and Hung Curd Dip works well as a fresh, herby addition, and a bowl of Silky Spinach Shorba with Mint makes a light starter if you are feeding a crowd.

Leftovers keep well in the fridge for a day or two. Dalia firms up as it cools, so reheat it with a little water and stir over low heat until it loosens again. Keep the paneer separate and warm it fresh, since it can turn rubbery if it sits in the pot. Cold leftover khichdi, pressed into a flatbread-style patty and fried in a little oil, is also surprisingly good for breakfast.