Hearty Field Bean and Vegetable Soup

Rangoon na vaal, the broad field bean, is one of those pulses that feels a little old-fashioned in the best way. It has a thick skin and a buttery, earthy inside, and it takes on flavour from whatever it simmers with. This soup lets it do exactly that. Once the beans are soft and mashed a little against the side of the pot, the whole thing turns creamy without a drop of cream, which is a lovely thing to discover on a wet evening.

A quick note on the beans themselves. Soak them long enough that they soften fully before boiling, because undercooked field beans stay chalky and a bit stubborn in the mouth. If you are short on time, cook them in a pressure cooker until they mash easily between your fingers. Keep a little of the cooking water aside. It makes a good base if the soup thickens too much as it sits.

The celery here is ajmoda, sometimes called carom-family seed or lovage-like herb depending on where you shop, and it is not the same as the crunchy stalk in your fridge. A small amount goes a long way. If you cannot find it, leave it out rather than swapping in a large quantity of something else, and the soup will still taste bright and clean.

Leftovers keep well in a sealed container in the fridge for two or three days. The soup thickens as it cools, so loosen it with a splash of hot water or stock when you reheat it. It also freezes nicely for a month or so, though the cabbage softens further, which I actually like. For a lunch that travels, pour it into a flask while it is still steaming hot.

To make the bowl feel like a meal, serve it with a small plate of something crunchy. A sprout salad with a tangy dressing works beautifully, as does a cool, crisp Sprout Salad with Fruit and Curd Dressing on the side. If you want more beans, the Sweet and Tangy Field Beans Curry makes a good second course when you are cooking for a crowd. For something lighter at the end of the meal, the Crisp Apple and Muskmelon Tossed Salad finishes things off with a fresh note.

Serve it steaming, with plenty of black pepper on top and a squeeze of lemon if you have one. It is simple food, and it does not need fuss.