Pasta Spirals with Sun-Dried Tomato Dressing

This is one of those suppers that feels like you planned it, when really it came together while the pasta water was coming to the boil. The trick is the oil. Those two spoonfuls from the sun-dried tomato jar carry a lot of flavour, so don't pour them away. Sun-dried tomatoes are simply tomatoes dried in sun or warm air until their sugars concentrate, which is why they taste so deep and a little sweet. Packed in oil they soften, and the oil picks up their flavour too.

The anchovy is the bit people worry about, and I'd gently encourage you to try it. You won't taste fish. What it gives you is a savoury, rounded note, a bit like the background hum in a good Italian sauce. If you skip it, the dressing still works, just a touch flatter. Capers and parsley bring the sharp, green edges that keep it from feeling heavy.

A few practical things I've learned from making this more than once. Drain the pasta well but don't rinse it, because a little starch on the surface helps the dressing cling. Spirals hold on to a thick sauce better than smooth tubes, which is why eliche is a good pick here, though any short shape will do. Keep the blend a little rough. A smooth purée turns the dressing paste-like, and you want little bits of tomato to bite into.

If you have leftovers, they keep well in the fridge for a day or two. Eat them cold or at room temperature the next day, adding a splash of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, which wakes the flavours back up. The dressing also makes a good spoon of relish on toast or stirred into a bowl of white beans. If you're after a richer side dish for a crowd, try Crispy Potato Pancakes with Mushroom Topping.

For something to go alongside, I like a simple plate of greens, a crisp salad with plenty of bitter leaves to balance the richness. If you want something more filling, a piece of baked fish is lovely next to this. You could try Baked Fish Parcel with Butter Beans for a warm, light plate, or Golden Roasted Cauliflower with Lemon Dressing if you want something roasted and golden on the side. Either one lets the pasta stay the star without making the meal feel thin.