Steamed Jowar and Radish Muthia

Muthia are one of those snacks that show up in home kitchens across western and central India, and this version has a lovely honesty to it. Nothing is fried. The dough is simply rolled into logs, steamed until set, sliced into rounds, and then warmed through in a little tempering. If you enjoy steamed savouries, the Buckwheat Dhokla Steamed with Sour Curds follows a similar gentle method. Grated radish does most of the work here, giving the dough moisture and a faint peppery sweetness that carries through even after steaming.

Jowar, or white sorghum millet, is the grain doing the heavy lifting. It is a sturdy, gluten free grain that has been eaten for centuries in dry regions where wheat did not grow easily. Ground or used whole, it gives a slightly nutty, earthy flavour that pairs well with besan, which adds body and helps the rolls hold their shape. If you have never cooked with jowar before, know that it can feel a little crumbly at first. Keep kneading and add water a spoonful at a time, stopping as soon as the dough comes together. It should feel soft, not sticky.

A few small tips make a real difference. Squeeze the grated radish well before it goes into the bowl, otherwise the dough turns loose and the rolls can slump in the steamer. When you roll the logs, keep your palms slightly oiled so the mixture does not cling. Let the rolls rest for a few minutes after steaming before slicing, because they firm up as they cool and you get cleaner rounds. For the tempering, have everything ready before the oil goes in. Mustard seeds need only a few seconds to crackle, and the curry leaves can spit, so a lid nearby is handy.

Leftover steamed rolls keep well in the fridge for a day or two, wrapped loosely so they do not dry out. You can slice them cold and temper them the next day, though they will be softest when freshly steamed. Any extra radish leaves can be finely chopped and added to a dal or a stir fry rather than thrown away.

For a simple meal, serve the muthia with a bowl of plain dal and a crisp cucumber salad. A spoon of the Tangy Mixed Lentil Dal with Tadka makes a satisfying partner, and a few slices of Crunchy Mixed Vegetable Pickle on the side add sharp contrast. A cup of masala chai or a glass of buttermilk rounds it out nicely.