Savoury Spinach and Cheddar Scones

Scones are one of those bakes that sit in a middle ground between bread and cake, and savoury ones are the grown-up cousin. These ones lean on wholemeal flour, which gives a nuttier, slightly denser crumb than white flour. That is a good thing here, because the cheese, spring onion and spinach all want something with a bit of backbone to hold them. If you have only ever made sweet scones, the dough will feel a touch stickier than you expect. Resist the urge to add more milk. A soft but firm dough is what you want, and it will rise nicely in the oven.

A quick word on the spinach. Frozen spinach is the practical choice for a weekday bake, and it is often more useful than fresh because it is already wilted and you can control the moisture. The trick is to squeeze it really well after defrosting. Wet spinach turns a scone heavy and gives it pale, damp streaks, so give it a proper squeeze in a clean tea towel. Chopping it finely means the little flecks disappear into the crumb rather than falling out when you bite in.

Mature cheddar matters more than you might think. It has a sharper, more savoury punch, so you can use a little less and still taste it. Holding back that spoonful of cheese for the tops is a small step that pays off. It melts into a golden crust and makes the scones look as good as they taste. A pinch of paprika on top adds colour and a faint smokiness, and it is entirely optional if you prefer things plain.

These scones are at their best still slightly warm, split and spread with a little butter. They are also excellent with a bowl of lentil or tomato soup, which is a very easy lunch. If you want something more filling, they make a sensible companion to a simple salad of leaves, cucumber and radishes. For a relaxed supper, you could serve them alongside Tender braised lamb steaks with tomato, where the rich sauce is nice to mop up with a scone. For a heartier night in, they also go well with Rich beef casserole with herby dumplings, since a warm scone makes a good companion to the thick gravy.

To store them, keep scones in an airtight tin once they are fully cooled, and eat them within two days. They lose their softness quickly, so I would not bother freezing a whole batch unless you plan to reheat them later. Instead, freeze them unbaked on a tray, then bake straight from frozen, adding a few minutes to the time. Leftover stale scones are not wasted either. Crumble them over a bowl of soup, or pulse them into breadcrumbs for a crispy topping on a bake. They also make a decent base for a quick toastie with sliced tomato.

If you are cooking for a group, these scones pair happily with Spinach and Potato Curry. The earthy greens and warm spice on the curry sit well next to the cheesy bread, and it turns a simple bake into a proper spread. Whatever you serve them with, enjoy them warm and do not worry too much about perfect shapes. Rustic scones have their own charm.