Stuffed Bhindi Masala with Coriander Paste

Bhindi, or okra as it is called in many English kitchens, has a reputation for going slimy. The trick most home cooks in Gujarat and Rajasthan rely on is simple: wipe the pods completely dry before you cut them, and let them sit in a hot pan without much stirring at the start. Moisture is the enemy here. Once the surface is dry, the okra sears instead of sulking, and the sticky thread that puts people off mostly disappears.

Slitting each pod lengthwise also helps the masala get inside, where it can cling and perfume the vegetable from the middle out. This is why the paste is made with a generous handful of fresh coriander, a little ginger and green chilli, and roasted sesame. The sesame is a small but lovely detail. Toasted seeds give a nutty note that stands up to the sharp lemon you squeeze over at the end.

A few things I have learned from making this more than once. Keep the besan in the bowl with the paste rather than tossing it straight into the pan, so it hydrates and doesn't clump into lumps. Save the leftover paste, even if it seems like too little. It goes back into the pan with the splash of water and turns into a thick coating that holds the bhindi together. And don't skip the lid at the end. Those six to eight minutes under cover let the okra soften all the way through, and the stirring you do in between keeps the bottom from catching.

Leftovers keep in the fridge for a day or two in a covered container. Reheat them gently in a dry pan rather than the microwave, which tends to turn okra limp. The flavour is often better the next day, once the coriander and spices have had time to settle.

For a full meal, I like to serve this with soft rotis or a simple dal. If you want something lighter alongside, a bowl of Steamed Bottle Gourd Muthia with Sesame Tempering makes a nice contrast, with its gentle steaming and the same toasty sesame. A spoonful of Green Garlic and Coriander Chutney on the side adds another bright, herby layer if you want more of that coriander flavour.

Salt is worth tasting before you finish. The paste already has lemon and spices, so go easy and add a pinch at a time. A squeeze of extra lemon just before eating often does more than a second pinch of salt would.