Warm Apple and Blackberry Oat Crumble

Crumble is one of those puddings that grew out of thrift. In the years after the wars in Britain, cooks made do with whatever flour, fat and fruit they had, rubbing them together into a rough, sandy topping. This version keeps that spirit. Fresh wholemeal breadcrumbs do the job that flour and butter would normally do, and they bake up with more bite and a nuttier flavour than you might expect.

A quick word on the apples. Leaving the skins on is worth it here. Apple peel holds much of the fruit's fibre and a good deal of its colour, and once the chunks have softened in the oven the skins add a little texture that sits nicely against the jammy blackberries. Choose eating apples that hold their shape, because cooking-type apples can collapse into a purée under the topping.

Blackberries are the other piece of the puzzle. They are at their best in late summer and early autumn, when they are dark, glossy and easy to pick from hedgerows if you are lucky enough to have them nearby. Frozen blackberries work just as well. Tip them in still frozen, and give the dish an extra few minutes in the oven so the juices have time to thicken a little around the apple.

Two small tips from my own kitchen. First, do not stir the topping into the fruit. Keep the crumble mix on top so the oats and seeds catch the heat and turn crisp. Second, let the crumble rest for five minutes after it comes out. The juices settle, and the spoonful you serve will hold together instead of running all over the bowl.

Leftovers keep well. Cover the dish once it is cool and put it in the fridge for up to two days. Warm it in a low oven, loosely covered with foil, so the topping does not turn soggy. Cold crumble with a spoon of yogurt makes a decent breakfast, and I have been known to eat it straight from the dish standing up at the counter.

For serving, I like half-fat crème fraiche because it has a tang that cuts through the honey, but natural yogurt is just as good and a little lighter. If you want something more substantial for a weekend lunch, a bowl of unsweetened custard works beautifully too. This crumble also pairs well with a simple main after a light supper. For something savoury before it, try the Leek and Bacon Pasta with Rosemary for a comforting, filling start. And if you want a breakfast-style bowl the next morning, the Cranberry and apple overnight oats echo the same flavours in a cold, no-cook form.