Baked Salmon with Spicy Date Sauce

Dates are one of those ingredients that make you wonder why they aren't in more savory cooking. Once they're softened and mashed, they turn into a thick, jammy base that tastes sweet without needing any sugar added. Here they stand up to the harissa and get along well with the cumin and coriander, so the sauce tastes rounded instead of just hot.

California dates are the soft, sticky kind, which is why they break down so easily in the microwave. If you can only find firmer dates, give them a little longer in the water, or add an extra spoonful of water so they loosen up before you mash. Keep a few chopped dates back, as the recipe suggests. Those little pieces scattered on top stay chewy in the oven and give you something to bite into beside the smooth sauce.

Salmon is a forgiving fish for this, but it still needs watching. Sockeye is leaner and firmer than farmed Atlantic, so it can dry out quickly. Pull it when it flakes easily at the center, and let it rest for a couple of minutes before serving. The sauce keeps the top moist, which helps.

Leftovers are worth planning for. The date sauce keeps in a sealed jar in the fridge for several days, and it's good spooned over roasted vegetables, thinned with a little warm water as a dip for flatbread, or stirred into plain yogurt for a quick sauce with grilled chicken. Cold salmon flakes nicely into a grain bowl the next day.

For serving, I like something cool and plain next to all that warmth. Steamed rice or a spoon of quinoa soaks up the extra sauce, and a crisp salad with cucumber and red onion makes a good contrast. If you want something lighter still, try Grilled Salmon with Fresh Mango Salsa for a bright fruit counterpoint, or Miso Roasted Salmon with Bok Choy when you want a different flavor direction on the same fish.