Broiled Cod with Lemon Parmesan Topping

Cod is one of those fish that forgives a busy cook. It is mild and flaky, and it takes on whatever you put on top of it without fighting back. This recipe leans on that. A thin layer of light mayonnaise, lemon juice and paprika goes over each filet, then a dusting of grated Parmesan, and the broiler does the rest. The mayonnaise keeps the top from drying out while the heat sets the cheese into a pale golden crust. It is a little like the old pub habit of putting something rich on a plain fillet, just lighter and quicker.

A food fact worth knowing: cod is a lean white fish, which means it has very little fat of its own. That is why it can dry out fast under high heat. The coating here does double duty. It protects the flesh and adds flavor, so you do not need to drown the fish in butter. Keep an eye on it after about seven minutes. Thin filets go from opaque and moist to chalky in a hurry, and the flesh should flake easily with a fork when it is done.

A tip from my own kitchen: pat the filets dry before you spread the mixture. Excess moisture will thin the mayonnaise and make the topping slide off. If your filets are very thick, you can move the rack down a notch so the middle cooks before the top browns too far. Use a fresh lemon if you can. The bottled kind tastes flat next to the paprika and parsley.

Leftovers keep in a covered container in the fridge for a day or so. Cold, the fish is good flaked into a salad or tucked into a wrap with shredded cabbage, though the topping loses its crispness. I would rather reheat it gently in a low oven than in the microwave, which can make cod rubbery.

For a simple plate, I like it with a big spoon of something green and something with a bit of bite. Roasted vegetables work well, and so does a bowl of brown rice tossed with herbs. If you are putting together a larger spread, a few of these are good companions: Smoky Grilled Tilapia with Corn Salsa for another fish night, Sweet Potato Salad with Arugula and Pecans for something earthy alongside, and Crunchy Vegetable Sticks with Creamy Herb Dip for a crisp starter while the oven heats.