Creamy Crab Pastry Bites

These crab bites are the sort of thing you make when people are standing around with drinks and you want something warm in their hands that isn't a pile of crisps. The filling is simple: a beaten egg loosened with half-fat crème fraîche, a spoonful of finely grated Parmesan, snipped chives and a pinch of paprika, all folded through white crab meat. The little pastry cases do most of the work, going crisp in the oven while the filling sets to a soft, custardy top.

A word on the crab. Fresh white crab meat has a delicate, slightly sweet flavour, and it is quite lean, which is why it suits a light filling so well. The tinned version works in a pinch, but drain it thoroughly and pick through for shell fragments, because the little cases are small and nobody wants to crunch on one. Fresh crab keeps only a day or two in the fridge, so buy it the day you plan to bake.

Mini cases can be fiddly to fill without slopping. I find it easiest to spoon the mixture into a small jug first and pour from there, a little at a time, so each case gets a tidy dome rather than a puddle. Don't overfill them, because the filling puffs slightly as it bakes. Give them a few minutes to cool before serving. They are at their best warm, not piping hot, and they hold their shape well enough to sit on a platter for half an hour while you talk.

If you have any filling left over, it makes a lovely scrambled egg addition the next morning. Spoon it into a warm pan with a splash of milk and stir gently over a low heat. It will not keep for long, so eat it within a day.

For something to put alongside, I like a plate of crisp raw vegetables. Crisp Celery Boats with Two Fillings would sit very happily on the same table, and the crunch balances the softness of the crab. If you want something heartier for a longer evening, a wedge of Golden leek tart with goat's cheese follows the same cheesy, savoury line without much extra effort.

Keep the drinks light and the chilled white or sparkling water close to hand. These bites are rich enough that a squeeze of lemon over the plate, or a few extra chives scattered on top, is all they need to feel finished.