Crisp Vegetable and Vermicelli Rice Paper Rolls

Rice paper rolls have a reputation for being fiddly, but the trick is mostly patience with the wrapper. Dip it in warm water only until it turns soft and pliable, then lift it out and let it sit on the towel for a moment. It keeps softening as it rests, so if you rush the first roll you will end up with a torn edge. Do the first one slowly and the rest get quicker almost by themselves.

Vermicelli is a good partner for this sort of filling because it stays light and springy. Rice noodles are made from rice flour and water, which is why they are naturally gluten free and cook in minutes, but they also clump when they sit. Stirring them while they soak and snipping them short makes them much easier to roll and to bite through. If you have a bowl of filling left over at the end, keep it in the fridge in a sealed container and eat it the next day as a noodle salad with a spoonful of the dipping sauce. The cabbage and cucumber stay crisp for a day, though the herbs are best fresh.

The dipping sauce is worth making properly rather than buying a bottle. It is sugar, water, lime and a splash of vinegar and soy, and it tastes bright because you can adjust it as you go. Add more lime if you want it sharper, or leave out the chilli if the table includes children or people who prefer mild food. Keep any extra in a jar in the fridge; it will last several days and is lovely spooned over grilled chicken or a bowl of steamed greens.

When you serve these, think about what sits next to them rather than piling on more. A plate of rolls is already light and cool, so a warm, savoury dish makes a good contrast. A bowl of chicken and corn soup or a few grilled prawns on skewers would both sit nicely beside the platter. For a snack-sized spread, the Mango salsa wonton cups bring a sweet and tangy element to the table, and the Crunchy Garden Veg Wrap with Hummus is a sturdy option for anyone who wants something more filling.

Rolls are best eaten within an hour or two of rolling, while the wrapper is still tender. If you need to make them earlier, wrap the platter loosely in a damp tea towel and cover it, then keep it in the fridge rather than the sun. They will firm up a little, but they still taste fresh the next morning.