Crunchy Mixed Vegetable Pickle

This is the kind of pickle that makes a plain thali feel finished. It is not cooked at all. You chop the vegetables, toss them with salt and a little water, and leave them in a glass jar overnight. That one day in the salt brine is what keeps carrots and cauliflower snappy instead of soft, so it is worth giving them the full day rather than rushing it.

The mustard is the heart of it. Split mustard seeds, called rai na kuria in the recipe, are ground into a paste with chilli powder, asafoetida and turmeric, and the sharp, slightly bitter flavour of the seeds comes through strongly once the paste is stirred in. Mustard is a seed that has been part of Indian kitchens for a very long time, and it turns up in pickles across the country, each region with its own mix of spices and vegetables. This version is a gentle, home-style take, where the vegetables are the star and the spices simply frame them.

A tip from years of making pickles: use a bone-dry spoon every time you dip into the jar. A drop of wet food or oil in the jar can encourage mould, and that is the one thing that will spoil a batch quickly. Keep the jar in the refrigerator once it is opened, and let it come to room temperature for a few minutes before serving if it has been chilled, because the flavour opens up as it warms. The recipe says it keeps for up to six months in the fridge, and in my experience the vegetables stay crisp for a good while, though they soften slowly the longer they sit.

Pickle is at its best alongside plain food. A bowl of warm dal and rice is the classic partner, and a small spoonful on the side cuts through something rich. If you want a fuller meal, try it with Fenugreek and Moong Dal Sabzi for a mild, earthy plate, or with Sprouted Buckwheat and Moong Khichdi when you want something soft and comforting. Steamed Bhindi in Spiced Yogurt Gravy also works well, because the cool yogurt and the sharp pickle make a lovely contrast.

Leftover brine at the bottom of the jar is worth keeping. Stir a spoonful into plain yogurt or spoon a little over boiled potatoes for a quick tangy hit.