Smoky Pepper Salmon with Fresh Fruit Salsa

Chipotle in adobo is one of those pantry items that does more than you expect. The peppers are smoked red jalapeños, simmered in a tangy tomato and vinegar sauce, so a spoonful brings heat, smoke and a little sweetness all at once. Here it gets chopped fine and loosened with olive oil, then brushed over the salmon. You only need a small amount, and the leftover tin keeps well in the fridge in a sealed container, so the rest of it is ready for the next time you want a quick glaze on chicken or a spoon of heat in a bean soup.

Sockeye is a good choice for this. It is a deep red, firmer salmon with a richer flavor than many farmed fillets, and it holds its shape in a hot oven. Salmon is also a source of protein and the kind of fat most of us are told to eat more of, which makes it a sensible anchor for a plate built around vegetables and fruit. If you like the idea of a different salmon preparation, the Ginger Lemongrass Grilled Salmon takes the same fish in a very different direction. Keep an eye on the fish near the end of baking. Sockeye turns from translucent to opaque quickly, and it keeps cooking a little after you take it out, so pulling it when the thermometer reads the target number tends to give you the moist middle you want.

The salsa is where the dish earns its name. Watermelon and mango are both sweet, so the jalapeño and red onion matter more than they might seem to. They keep the fruit from tasting like dessert. If you want the salsa to sit a few minutes before serving, it will weep a little juice; spoon that juice over the fish rather than pouring it off, since it tastes of lime and chile.

For sides, I like something plain and starchy that soaks up the juices. Warm rice or a spoonful of quinoa works well, and so does a handful of greens dressed with more lime. If you are in the mood for another seafood dish that uses a similar flavor path, the Roasted Cod with Orange and Fennel has the same bright, citrusy feel. For a cool, crisp side that also uses watermelon, the Cool Watermelon Salad with Feta and Arugula is an easy pairing.

Leftover salsa is good the next day, though the fruit softens and the onion gets sharper, so you may want to add a squeeze of lime before eating. Leftover salmon flakes nicely into a grain bowl or a wrap with lettuce.