Fresh Asparagus and Tuna Salad

This one started life as a riff on the French niçoise, the salad from Nice that traditionally leans on green beans, boiled potatoes, olives and tuna. Somewhere along the way it got looser and greener, and this version is what you get when you take that idea and build it around asparagus, which is in season for only a short stretch each spring. When it is at its best, the stalks still have a little snap, so trim them and cut them into big pieces rather than thin coins. That way they stay crisp against the juicy tomatoes instead of going limp.

A quick word on the garlic, because it is easy to skip. Rubbing the cut halves around the inside of the bowl gives a gentle perfume without any harsh bits floating about. You are essentially seasoning the bowl, and then you lift the cloves out. It is a small trick, but it makes the whole salad taste like someone thought about it.

The dressing is just vinegar, a spoon of Dijon and good olive oil whisked slowly. Pour the oil in a thin stream while you whisk and it will hold together for a while. If it separates on the way to the table, give it another stir. I like to dress the salad at the last moment, because the cucumber and tomato release water if they sit in the vinaigrette for long, and the greens lose their bounce.

Tomatoes are the one thing I would not compromise on. Out of season they taste of very little, so if yours are pale, use a handful of cherry tomatoes and cut them in half. Red capsicums add a sweetness that balances the sharp onion, and the parsley is not just a garnish here. Its bright, slightly bitter leaf lifts everything, so do not hold back on it.

Leftovers keep reasonably well if you store the dressing separately. Keep the eggs, fish and greens in their own containers and the salad will stay fresh for a day or so in the fridge. The asparagus will soften a bit, but it still makes a decent lunch with a spoonful of dressing stirred through just before eating.

To serve it as a meal, a bowl of this with some crusty bread is plenty. If you want something more filling, it pairs nicely with a warm grain salad, such as the Citrus Quinoa Salad with Avocado and Edamame, which brings a different kind of freshness to the table. For a lighter side at a barbecue, the Quick Poppy Seed Coleslaw adds crunch without competing with the asparagus. Either way, this salad is at its happiest eaten outside on a warm day, with the dressing still cold from the fridge.