Garden Vegetable Baked Pasta

Baked pasta has a reputation as a heavy, cheese-soaked dish meant for a crowd, and this one is a little different. The pasta is only one part of the pan. Onion, zucchini and red pepper cook down in the skillet until they go soft and sweet, and they make up a good share of every serving. The ricotta and Parmesan are there for creaminess, but they don't have to carry the whole dish. That is the idea behind a lot of the old casseroles that came out of home kitchens in the United States, where a pan of pasta had to stretch across a potluck table or a church supper.

A food fact worth knowing: zucchini is mostly water, around 95 percent by weight, which is why it can turn a skillet watery if you crowd the pan. Give it room to sit and brown a little, and let it cook off its moisture before you add the tomatoes. Those few extra minutes make the difference between a sauce that clings to the penne and a soupy bottom layer. The same goes for the bell pepper. Cut it into pieces roughly the size of the zucchini so everything finishes at about the same time.

Two small habits make this easier. First, cook the pasta a minute or two short of the package time, since it will keep softening in the oven. Second, when you whisk the ricotta with the egg, do it in a small bowl before it touches the hot pasta. That way the egg blends in smoothly instead of scrambling in strands. Basil goes in off the heat, so it stays bright green and tastes like basil rather than cooked leaves.

This baked pasta keeps well. Cover leftovers and refrigerate them within a couple of hours of baking, then eat them within three or four days. A square reheated in the microwave with a splash of water over it comes back almost as good as the first day. It also freezes in individual portions, which is handy if you want a lunch that does not require any planning.

For a simple meal, add a green salad with lemon and olive oil, or a bowl of sliced cucumbers and tomatoes. If you are in the mood for more finger food alongside it, Golden Zucchini Boats with Bruschetta Topping fit the same summer garden flavors. A plate of Tomato Basil and Mozzarella Skewers also works well as a starter. And if you have extra basil left over, Creamy Basil Pesto with Spinach is a good way to use it up later in the week.