Golden Zucchini Boats with Bruschetta Topping

Zucchini is one of those vegetables that tastes like very little on its own, which is exactly why it works so well as a vessel. About 95 percent of a zucchini is water, so the trick is to give that water somewhere to go. Blanching the boats for a couple of minutes and then shocking them in iced water firms up the shell so it holds its shape under the filling instead of sliding into a puddle on the pan. It is a small step, but it is the difference between a boat and a soggy bowl.

I like this dish most on a weeknight when the garden or the market has given me more zucchini than I know what to do with. The scooped-out flesh is not wasted. Sauteing it with pepper and folding it into the bruschetta makes the filling taste like it has more body than it really does. If your bruschetta is very wet, let the filling simmer a minute longer so the extra liquid cooks off before you spoon it in.

Watch the broiler closely. The Parmesan goes from golden to dark in what feels like seconds, and a bitter top ruins the whole thing. Pull the tray as soon as the cheese is spotted brown.

For the plate, a simple green salad with lemon and olive oil is all you need. If you want something more filling, a bowl of white beans with garlic, or a piece of grilled chicken, turns these into a full meal. A few leftover boats keep in the fridge for a day or two, and they reheat well in a hot oven, though they will not be quite as crisp. For a heartier companion, the Baked Turkey Meatballs with Tangy Sauce make a good match, since the tang of the sauce plays nicely against the mild zucchini.

If you are feeling like a bigger zucchini night, the Garlic Shrimp Spaghetti with Zucchini Noodles uses the same squash in a different way, and it is quick enough to make alongside the boats on the same evening.