Golden Thin Pancakes with Ground Rice

These pancakes are closer to a crêpe than the fat, fluffy American kind. The batter is thin, almost like single cream, and it is the ground rice doing most of the work. Ground rice has a slightly grainy, sandy texture that gives the edges a crisp lace when it hits a hot pan, and cornflour keeps the middle soft enough to roll or fold. It is a humble pairing that has been around in British kitchens for a long time, often as a way to make a little egg and milk go a long way on a weekday morning.

The one fact worth knowing is that ground rice settles. Within a few minutes the heavier grains drop to the bottom of the bowl, so a pancake made from the top of the jug will be thinner and paler than one made from the bottom. Give the batter a good stir before every ladleful, as the method suggests, and you will get even colour across the whole batch. Your first pancake is usually the test one. If it tears or sticks, the pan is either too cool or has too much oil sitting in it. Wipe the pan with kitchen paper so only a faint sheen remains.

Once you have a stack, they keep well. Layer them with baking parchment, wrap them tightly, and put them in the fridge for up to two days, or freeze them for a month or so. To reheat, warm them one at a time in a dry pan for half a minute on each side. They also make a good base for leftovers. A spoonful of last night's stew, a little grated cheese and a handful of spinach folded in will turn them into a quick lunch.

For serving, I like something bright and a little sharp against the soft, mild pancakes. A squeeze of lemon and a light dusting of sugar is the classic, and it is hard to beat. For a savoury meal, try them with a spoonful of soft scrambled egg, some smoked fish, or a few spring onions and a drizzle of soy. A simple green salad with a mustardy dressing also works well, and if you want something warm alongside, the Salmon Simmered with Broccoli and Leeks pairs nicely with a folded pancake. For a weekend brunch, a Folded Omelette with Sausages and Bacon on the same plate makes it feel like a proper spread.

Most of all, do not expect the first one to be perfect. The pan teaches you its own heat, and after three or four pancakes you will know exactly how far to tilt it and when to flip.