Kodri (Varagu) Pulao with Mixed Vegetables

Kodri, also called varagu, is one of those small millets that has been eaten across India for a very long time, mostly in home kitchens in the south and west where people grew it on dry land that rice would never have liked. The grain is tiny and a little chewy, and it takes on flavour well, which is why it works so nicely in a pulao like this one. Once it is cooked and cooled a little, it holds its shape, so the grains stay separate instead of turning gluey.

The vegetables do most of the talking here. Celery, which the recipe calls ajmoda, gives a bright, slightly bitter note that pairs well with the sweetness of carrot and coloured capsicum. Bean sprouts and shredded cabbage add crunch that stays put even after the pan has been hot for a few minutes. Keep the flame high and resist the urge to stir constantly. A little rest against the hot kadhai gives the edges a faint toast, and that light char is most of what makes this taste like something you would order out.

A tip from my own kitchen: have everything chopped before the oil goes in. The whole stir-fry takes only a few minutes, and a pan that is waiting on your knife will steam the sprouts instead of crisping them. Soy sauce and white vinegar go in together, so the seasoning is spread through the grains rather than sitting in one wet pocket. Taste before you add the salt, because soy sauce already brings plenty.

Leftovers keep well for a day in a covered container in the fridge. Reheat them in a pan with a splash of water so the grains loosen up again. You can also turn the leftovers into a quick lunch by pressing them into a bowl and topping with a fried egg or some crumbled paneer.

For a simple meal, serve this alongside a bowl of plain dal or a cucumber and yoghurt raita, which cools the spice from the chilli sauce. If you are making a bigger spread, a crisp salad like the Zesty Rajma and Sprout Salad echoes the sprouts and onions nicely. A bowl of Easy Homemade Vegetable Stock is handy to have on hand if you want to cook kodri in stock instead of water next time, and the Rustic Millet Flatbreads with Spring Onion and Carrot make a good companion on the side.