Silky Peach and Nectarine Mousse

Mousse is one of those desserts that sounds fancy and turns out to be mostly patience. This one is built on a simple idea: a smooth puree of peaches and nectarines, a spoonful of plain yoghurt for tang, and whipped egg whites folded through to make the texture airy. The gelatine does the quiet work of setting it so it holds a spoon mark without feeling heavy.

A little food fact worth knowing: nectarines are not a cross between peaches and plums, as many people assume. They are simply a smooth-skinned variety of peach, the result of a natural mutation that removes the fuzz. That is why the two fruits taste so alike and swap so easily in a recipe like this. If your stone fruit is hard, leave it on the bench in a paper bag for a day or two. Peaches soften and sweeten a little as they ripen, and a riper fruit needs less help from the sweetener.

Here is the tip I wish someone had told me years ago. Let the gelatine mixture cool to lukewarm before you stir it into the puree. If it is still hot, it can seize into little strings when it meets the cold fruit. And when you fold the egg whites in, use a big spatula and be gentle. Stop as soon as the streaks disappear. Overmixing knocks the air out, and then the mousse sets dense rather than soft.

Storage is easy. Covered tightly, the mousse keeps in the fridge for a day or two, though the top can weep slightly after that. It does not freeze well, because the whipped whites turn grainy when thawed, so make it fresh. Leftover puree also makes a lovely topping for plain porridge or a spoonful of Greek yoghurt the next morning.

For a meal around it, I like something savoury and a little spicy to balance the sweetness. A bowl of smoky vegetable and bean chilli makes a hearty supper, and the cool mousse afterwards feels like a proper ending. Or try a sumac salmon with watercress yoghurt sauce for something brighter, where the peppery greens and tangy sauce echo the yoghurt in the dessert.

Serve it in small glasses so nobody feels they have to take a huge portion. A few fresh slices of peach on top, or a few mint leaves, is plenty of decoration. The fruit is the star here, and it does not need much help.