Steamed Spinach and Split Cow Pea Dhokla

Dhokla is one of those snacks that shows up at almost every Gujarati family gathering, and it is easy to see why. This version leans on split cow peas, which the dal blends into a thick, smooth batter. Spinach and fenugreek leaves go in alongside, so the squares come out soft, faintly green and full of flavour without any flour at all. The dill adds a light, almost sweet herbiness that surprises people the first time they taste it.

A little food fact about the star ingredient: chola dal is simply split cow peas with the skin removed, and it is one of the most useful pulses in an Indian kitchen. Soaking it overnight is what makes the blending easy. If the dal is still hard after soaking, the batter will be gritty and the dhokla will crumble when you cut it, so give it the full soak and drain it well.

The one step that decides how your dhokla turns out is the fruit salt. Add it right before you steam, and fold it in gently rather than beating it. It is what makes the batter rise and turn airy. If you wait too long after adding it, the bubbles fade and you end up with a flat, dense cake. Have your steamer already boiling and your thali greased so you can move quickly.

Once they are cool enough to handle, cut them and keep any leftover pieces in a closed box in the fridge. They are good cold, but I like them gently warmed in a steamer for a few minutes the next day. You can also crumble leftover pieces over plain yoghurt for a quick snack, which is how my aunt used to use up the last few squares.

For a fuller plate, serve these with a bowl of thin, tangy Smooth Gujarati Kadhi with Curds and Besan. The sourness of the kadhi sits beautifully against the mild, green sweetness of the dhokla. If you want something crisp on the side, a couple of Crispy Oats and Moong Dal Tikki make a satisfying pairing with a cup of chai.