Sweet Spiced Red Cabbage with Apples

Red cabbage is one of those vegetables that looks like it belongs in a jewel box. Cut it open and the purple leaves are full of a natural pigment that changes colour depending on what it touches. Add an acid such as vinegar and it turns a bright, almost ruby red. Add something alkaline and it drifts toward blue or grey. That is why this dish stays so vivid: the splash of white wine vinegar keeps the colour punchy while the lid traps the steam and softens the shreds into silky strands.

The sweet, spiced flavour is a very British way of cooking cabbage for the colder months. Families would often make a big pan of it to go alongside roast pork, goose or a cold cut platter, and it still has that cosy, kitchen-at-Christmas smell. The apples melt into the cabbage so you get little pockets of sweetness without any sugary glaze on top. A stick of cinnamon and a few cloves do most of the heavy lifting, so you don't need much else.

A few things I have learned from making this more than once. Slice the cabbage as finely as you can, because thin shreds cook evenly and soften in the time given. Keep the lid on and resist the urge to lift it too often, since the steam is doing the work. If the pan looks dry near the end, a splash of water will rescue it. Fish out the cinnamon stick and cloves before serving if you don't want anyone biting into them, though I usually leave them in the pot to keep the smell going while people eat.

This keeps well. It tastes even better the next day once the flavours have had time to settle, so it is a good make-ahead side. Cool it, store it in a sealed container in the fridge for a few days, and reheat gently in a pan with a little splash of water. It also makes a lovely filling for a jacket potato with a spoonful of plain yoghurt, or a warm side for a plate of sausages and mash. If you are after something cold and fruity for a summer barbecue instead, try Frozen Tropical Fruit and Wine Pops.

If you are planning a full spread, this pairs nicely with something savoury and herby on the side. A bowl of Sage Pork Meatballs with Warm Pear and Cabbage echoes the same autumn flavours without crowding the plate. For something sweet to finish, Cinnamon apple and raisin swirl buns carry the same spice and fruit into a second course.