Almond Baked Peaches with Raspberries

Peaches and nectarines are at their best for a short window in late summer, and this is one of my favourite ways to use them when the fruit is ripe but not quite ready to be eaten out of hand. The base is closer to a light sponge than a crumble. You nestle a raspberry into the hollow of each peach half, then spoon a thin almond batter over the top. As it bakes, the batter puffs and turns golden while the fruit softens and makes its own juice underneath.

A small thing worth knowing about stone fruit: peaches keep ripening after they are picked, so a fruit that feels a little firm on the day you buy it will often be sweet and juicy after a day or two on the counter. If yours are still hard, leave them in a fruit bowl rather than the fridge, which slows the ripening and can make the flesh go mealy. When they give slightly at the shoulder, they are ready. Nectarines work just as well, and they need no peeling, which is a relief on a warm afternoon.

The raspberries do two jobs. The ones tucked inside the peaches collapse a little and perfume the fruit, and the extra handful on the side adds a sharp contrast to the soft, sweet halves. I like to scatter them over the top just before serving, so they stay bright rather than turning to jam in the dish.

Keep an eye on the oven. The topping is ready when it is golden and the peaches are tender but still hold their shape. If the peaches start to slump, they have gone too far. Leftovers keep covered in the fridge for a day or so. The peaches are lovely cold, spooned over plain yogurt for breakfast. If you have a glut, you can also make a quick version of Silky Peach and Nectarine Mousse with the same fruit, which is a good way to use up any halves that were a bit too soft to arrange neatly.

For serving, I think this wants something cool and unfussy. A spoonful of plain low-fat yogurt or a little crème fraîche works well next to the warm fruit. A cup of tea or coffee is a nice match too. If you are feeding a crowd and want something a little richer on the table, a slice of Glossy lemon polenta loaf cake next to the peaches makes a pleasant pair, with the citrus cutting through the sweetness.