Creamy Parmesan Cauliflower

This is the sort of side dish I make when the main course is simple and I want something cozy beside it. Cauliflower has a mild, nutty sweetness that gets stronger the longer it cooks, and a sauce made from flour, milk and Parmesan gives it a soft, clinging coat without needing cream. The trick is patience with the onions. Keep the heat at medium high and stir them until they turn soft and translucent, not golden, because browned onions push the sauce toward a different flavor. Whisk the flour into the cold milk before it goes in the pan so you never have to chase lumps.

Cauliflower is a cruciferous vegetable, a cousin of broccoli and cabbage, and it has been cultivated for a very long time. Nothing about it is exotic, which is part of why it works so well in a plain, creamy sauce. It takes salt and pepper generously, and a good hard Parmesan adds a sharp edge that keeps the dish from tasting flat.

If you want to build a fuller dinner around it, these pair nicely. The Herbed White Fish Parcels with Roasted Cauliflower and Broccoli give you a lighter plate with the same mild vegetable. For something with more bite, the Sesame Cauliflower with a Chilli Kick offers a sharp contrast to the creamy sauce, and the Cauliflower curry with paneer and chickpeas is a hearty option for a weeknight.

Leftovers keep in a covered container in the fridge for three or four days. The sauce will thicken as it sits, so stir in a splash of milk when you reheat it gently in a pan. It does not freeze well, since the milk sauce can separate.